SEASONAL CHEF
Finding and using locally produced food

Gardening When It Counts: Growing Food in Hard Times
By Steve Solomon
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San Francisco Chronicle Cookbook

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Book Highlights California's Agricultural Bounty

Farmers markets are a favorite haunt of the journalists and chefs who write for the San Francisco Chronicle food section. So it’s not surprising that many of the 350 recipes in the San Francisco Chronicle Cookbook (Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1997) read like the inventions of someone who has just returned with bulging shopping bags from an excursion to a well-stocked farmers market.

The recipes in the book, billed as the best of 13,000 published in the paper over the last 10 years, offer lots of ideas for making use of the more common types of produce, from artichokes and asparagus to walnuts and zucchini. Reflecting the "melting pot" character of California and its farmers markets, the book also includes recipes for more exotic fare, including cardoons, burdock root, long beans, pea shoots and taro.

This recipe, contributed by Deborah Madison, founder of Greens, San Francisco’s pioneering vegetarian restaurant, could well have been inspired by a visit to a farmers market this time of year.

Warm Spring Vegetable Salad

  1-1/2 pounds of fava beans, shelled
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
3 tbs extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbs chopped fresh chervil
8 ounces asparagus, thinly sliced on the diagonal
4 ounces (or 4 small) carrots, peeled, thinly sliced or julienned
1 pound green peas, shelled
½ small fennel bulb, cored, thinly sliced crosswise
½ tsp salt, plus salt to taste
pepper to taste
tarragon vinegar to taste
1. Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil, put in the shelled fava beans and cook 1 minute. Take them out with a slotted spoon (save the water), rinse briefly to cool, them remove their outer skins. Put the peeled beans in a bowl along with the sliced onion, olive oil and chervil. Return the water to a boil.

2. Prepare the rest of the vegetables and add to the boiling water, along with ½ teaspoon salt. Check after a minute to see if the vegetables are done; cook longer if necessary.

3. Drain the vegetables in a colander and shake off as much water as possible. Add them to the onions and beans and gently mix everything together using a rubber spatula.

4. Taste and season with salt, if desired, and a grinding of pepper. Gradually add vinegar until it is as tart as you like. Serve right away.


Copyright 1997 Seasonal Chef