California cuisine became an international culinary phenomenon in the 1970s, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients, in combinations inspired by a diverse array of ethnic traditions. Vintage California Cuisine shows how the pieces of that culinary puzzle began to emerge more than a century ago, in cookbooks published by celebrity chefs, vegetarian advocates, ordinary housewives and others. This 152-page book features a selection of 300 recipes reprinted from 13 of the most interesting early California cookbooks, and tells the story of the authors of each volume. The recipes include:
* Walnut Catsup and Grape Pickles from the first California cookbook, How to Keep a Husband, published in 1872
* Oyster Croquettes and Cherry Chutney from What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, published in San Francisco in 1881 by a former slave
* Fig Marmalade and Quail a la Spanish from Santa Barbara Recipes, published in 1888
* Clayton's Celebrated California Salad Dressing, from an 1884 cookbook by an entrepreneurial San Francisco caterer, who was the first to recognize that California was worthy of cuisine that it could call its own
* Two dozen recipes translated from El Cocinero Espanol, a Spanish language cookbook published in 1898, which revealed the richness of the state's Spanish and Mexican heritage
* and more than three dozen recipes from two early vegetarian cookbooks
Many of these recipes are reprinted in this book for the first time since they originally appeared. Vintage California Cuisine brings them all together in one volume for the first time ever.
You'll find a sampling of recipes from the book below...
SALADS AND DRESSINGS
PICKLES AND PRESERVES
Raw potato, large, 1
White beans, 1 cup
Cut the fillets out of one sole and lay them flat on a
buttered pan, and season with salt and pepper. Make the following mixture and spread over
each fillet of sole: take one-half pound of sweet butter, three ounces of chopped salted
almonds, one fourth pound of chopped fresh mushrooms, a little chopped parsley, the juice
of a lemon, salt, pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Add to the pan one half glassful of
white wine and put in the oven for twenty minutes. When done serve in the pan by placing
it on a platter, with a napkin under it.
Boil mutton till tender. Scald large green chile peppers
and remove their thin outer skin. Hash the meat and make it into a stuffing with raisins,
stoned ripe olives and hard-boiled eggs minced fine. Fill the peppers with this stuffing
and put them in a pot in which has already been prepared a sauce of tomatoes, whole red
chile peppers, raisins, onion and a little broth, and heat slowly, twenty minutes, without
stirring. Garlic can be added.
Try this some morning for breakfast. Take twelve strips of
bacon, twelve slices of oranges, three teaspoons sugar and a little cornmeal. Fry bacon
until crisp and remove to hot platter. Slice oranges, sprinkle lightly with sugar, dip in
cornmeal and fry quickly in hot bacon fat. Arrange on platter around bacon and serve
Soak one cupful of bread crumbs in one cupful of milk
about 10 or 15 minutes. Melt one tablespoon of butter, add one cupful of cheese broken
into small pieces; Stir until melted, add the crumbs and one beaten egg, one half teaspoon
of salt, a few grains of bicarbonate of soda as large as a pea. Cook for five minutes.
Serve on wafers.
Boil, peel and mash six large sweet potatoes; season with salt, a
tablespoon of butter, one of sugar and a little pepper. When cold, mold into croquettes,
dip into beaten egg, then into finely rolled bread crumbs, and fry brown in hot fat.
Take cucumbers of fairly good sizesay six to eight
inches in length; cut them in two lengthwise and scoop out the inside, seeds and all, but
leave the outside shell whole and thick enough to be firm. Put the seeds and pulp into the
chopping bowl, and add salt and pepper, or green chile peppers chopped very fine; tomato
and bread crumbs; Chop all very find and mix well; fill each half shell, and put plenty of
butter in the stuffing and on top, so it will brown well. Bake in a hot oven for an hour.
The stuffing should be very hot in seasoning and the cooking thoroughly done.
Take six stalks of celery well washed. Make a stock of one
soup hen or chicken bones, and five pounds of veal bones in the usual manner, with
carrots, onions, parsley, bay leaves, salt and pepper. Place the celery in a vessel and
strain the broth over it. Boil until soft and let cool off in its own broth. When cold,
press the broth out of the celery with the hand, gently, and place on a plate. Season with
salt, fresh ground black pepper, chervil, and a one-quarter white wine vinegar with
tarragon to three-quarters of best olive oil.
Beat together one level teaspoonful of mustard, one
heaping teaspoon of sugar, one dessertspoonful of melted butter, one half teaspoon of salt
and the yolk of one egg; add one cupful of milk and cook in double boiler until it
thickens; stirring all the while. When thick add lemon juice or vinegar to taste. This
dressing can be kept any length of time by bottling, not necessary to seal.
Heat one half cupful of vinegar and one half cupful of
sugar. When very hot add one half cupful of sour cream into which the yolks of two eggs
have been beaten. Stir well, remove from the fire and then chill before using. Very nice
on cabbage slaw.
Take a bowl with a wooden spoon fitted to its
bottom. Mix 2-3 tablespoons mustard until quite stiff. Pour on slowly 1/4 pint best olive
oil, stirring rapidly until thick. Add 2-3 fresh eggs, mixed slightly. Pour on remaining
3/4 pint oil and stir rapidly until it forms a thick batter. Add a teacup full of best
wine vinegar and juice of one lemon, a small tablespoon salt, one tablespoon white sugar.
Stir well until all is incorporated. If bottled
and sealed tightly, the dressing will remain good for months. For those not fond of oil,
sweet cream of about 60 to 70 degrees in temperature is a good substitute though it
doesnt keep very well.
Cut four heads of celery in small pieces. Put
them in an earthen jar with four ounces of celery seed, one ounce of pulverized sugar and
half an ounce of salt. Pour two quarts of boiled vinegar, when hot, over this. Cover the
jar, and in two weeks strain it through a filter. Bottle and cork well.
Take the melon rind and scrape all the meat
from the inside, and then carefully slice all the outside of the rind from the white part
of the rind, then lay or cover the white part over with salt. It will have to remain under
salt one week before pickling; the rind will keep in salt from year to year. When you want
to pickle it, take it from the salt and put into clear water, change the water three times
a day must be changed say every four hours then take the rind from the water
and dry it with a clean cloth. Have your vinegar boiling, and put the rind into it and let
it lay in vinegar four days; then take it from the vinegar, drain, and sprinkle sugar
thickly over it and let it remain so one day. To make syrup, take the syrup from the rind
and add eight pounds more sugar to it, and put to boil; boil till a thick and clear syrup.
Weigh ten pounds of rind to 12 pounds of sugar; cover the rind with four pounds of it and
make the syrup with the remaining eight pounds. While the syrup is cooking add one
teacupful of white ginger root and the peel of three lemons. When the syrup is cooked,
then put the rind into the boiling syrup, and let it cook till you can pass a fork through
it with ease, then it is done. When cooled, put in jar or bottles with one pint of vinegar
to one quart of syrup, thus the pickles are made. See that they be well covered with
vinegar and syrup as directed."
Take 25 large peaches and let them lie in water for a
little while; then remove the down by rubbing with a cloth. Stone them and put them in a
kettle with two lbs granulated sugar a layer of peaches and a layer of sugar
add one-half pint water and place on a moderate fire. When the syrup is thick, take off
the fire, and put peaches and syrup together in a dish. Flatten the peaches with a wooden
spoon and turn from time to time, putting them in a place where the sun will shine on
them. When they are nearly dry roll in colored sugar. They will keep a long time.
Peel good-sized oranges, cut in ½ inch slices and cover
with cold water, allowing ½ pint to each orange. Let stand 24 hours. Cook until tender.
Add ½ pint of sugar and the juice of 1 lemon for each orange. Cook until transparent.
Place in jars, cover with syrup and seal.
Five cupfuls of pulp or juice, one cupful of brown sugar,
one cupful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, one teaspoonful of cloves, one
teaspoonful of cinnamon, and one teaspoonful of salt. Boil half away.
Boil together for two hours nine pounds of seeded plums,
six pounds of sugar, and three pints of the best cider vinegar. Just before removing from
the fire add one tablespoonful each of cloves and allspice.
Put mushrooms into a jar, squeeze them with your hand,
strew with salt and let them lay two days. Strain through a coarse cloth, put them on the
fire with allspice, cloves, mace and whole pepper. Boil well for an hour. Strain again.
When cold, put into bottles.
Twelve large tomatoes, twelve green chiles, twelve medium
onions, chop well; three cups sugar, three cups vinegar, two teaspoons allspice, one
teaspoon cayenne pepper, two heaping teaspoons salt. Boil all together till thick.
juice of 1 orange
2 cupfuls of sugar
1 cup sugar
Boil the sugar and water until it forms a syrup, then add vanilla.
Mix syrup with milk and cream and put in freezer for 10 minutes until partially frozen.
Combine avocado pulp with egg white and beat well.
Blend avocado pulp and slices with milk mixture and freeze hard.
Pour a pint of milk on a half a pound of bread crumbs. Let
it boil up. Stir in two ounces of butter, one of suet, keeping the pan over the fire until
all is mixed. Let it stand still till cold then add two eggs, two ounces of sugar, the
same of orange marmalade, one spoonful of orange flower water. Choose a basin that will
exactly hold it. Tie over a flannel cloth loosely, closely. Boil it one and a quarter
hours. Sauce of melted butter, sugar, a little lemon and brandy.
Halve six fine peaches, not too ripe, and place ina sauce
pan with concave side up. Take one peach, peeled, and mince with a dozen macaroons, adding
the yolk of an egg and half an ounce of sugar. Mix all well together and with this fill
the half peaches. Moisten all with half a cup of white wine and sprinkle with sugar. Bake
in a hot oven ten minutes and pour over zabaione and serve. This will make a most
delicious dessert dish.
Beat together, hard, for six minutes, six eggs and four
teaspoonsful of powdered sugar in a double boiler and place over a gentle fire, never
ceasing to whip until the contents become stiff enough to sustain a coffee spoon upright
in the middle. While whipping add three wineglassfuls of Marsala and one liqueur glass of
Maraschino brandy. Pour into tall glasses or cups and serve either hot or cold.
One teacup of butter, one and one-half teacups of sugar,
one and one-half pints of flour; four eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one-half teacup
of almonds chopped fine, two teaspoonfuls of yeast powder sifted in the flour. Beat the
butter, sugar and eggs together, then add the flour. Put cinnamon and almonds in and work
the whole up well, then roll on the board to thickness of half an inch, and cut out a
fingers length and join together at ends, so as to be round. Grease pans with butter
and put to bake.
1 cup sugar
Copyright 2003 Seasonal Chef