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The Market:
Jack London Square Certified Farmers Market
Oakland, California
Broadway and Embarcadaro Street
Sundays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. year round
Market-Goer: Victoria
Slind-Flor
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Thomas Dorn
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Given that
January 8 was his 70th
birthday, the King made an appearance at the Jack
London Farmers Market. Market Manager Thomas Dorn noticed
that Elvis Presley’s birthday fell on a regular Sunday market
day, and decided that the King should celebrate by going
produce-shopping. Dorn set up an Elvis look-alike contest, with donated produce
and a few Presley CD’s as prizes. He handed out copies of
some of Elvis’ favorite recipes from the Presley
Family Cookbook, including the seasonally appropriate “Down
Home Collard Greens,” and a vegetable pizza made from
refrigerator crescent dinner rolls. The Jack
London market is one of many operated by the Pacific
Coast Farmers Market Association. Stalls cost $21 in the
winter, with the price rising to $40 in summer. The market’s
been in operation for about 15 years, says Dorn, with 40 farmers
and 10 non-agricultural booths in the winter. In the summer, the
number of farmers may double. |
Although the market is only blocks from Oakland’s Chinatown,
it seems to attract few Asian shoppers, who probably do their
produce shopping at the Old
Oakland Farmers Market on Fridays instead. Typical
market-goers are tourists who’ve come to the square
for the view of the bay, or locals who’ve stopped to buy produce
after breakfast or brunch at one of the square’s many
restaurants. The market offers parking validation for a
discount at the underground parking garage.
Happy Boy Farms
from Freedom, California is a certified organic farm selling a
wide range of attractively displayed specialty produce, including
bagged salad greens, acorn and butternut squash, gold and red
beets, kale, dandelion
greens and fingerling potatoes. But this vendor does not
post prices in the booth, which makes me reluctant to buy anything
for fear of getting in way over my head.
Nick Salazar, brought tangerines, pomelos,
mandarins, navel, and the pink-fleshed cara
cara oranges from his Lone Oak Ranch in Reedley, near Fresno.
Salazar is a 5th generation California farmer who
decided to go organic about six years ago. The family owns 120
acres and leases another 40, with virtually 100 percent of the
citrus sold in farmers markets. Salazar says he “had to go
organic in order to survive. It’s not like farmers markets were
10 years ago when we had less competition. We had to find a
niche.” His navel oranges were $1 per pound and the specialty
citrus was $2 per pound.
Field-grown Galinda strawberries came up from Cortez Farms in
Santa Maria. The berries were slightly dinged from last week’s
torrential rains, but were brilliant red, sweet and flavorful.
They were selling for $3 per basket, or $8 for three.
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Dao Lor, of Kai's Fresh
Asian Produce
Gai Lon
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In between selling bunches of greens, Dao Lor was snacking on
strips of raw kohlrabi at Kai’s Fresh Asian Produce from Fresno.
He says his Hmong family likes to mix raw kohlrabi with salad.
Most of the greens at Lor’s booth were $1 per bunch, including
spinach, mustard greens, chard, baby bok choy, broccoli, cilantro
scallions, and yellow-flowered gai lon or Chinese
kale. He had large heads of cabbage for $2, Napa cabbage
for $1.50, and daikon and kohlrabi, both two for $1.
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Nuñez Farm from Watsonville had both red and green cabbage for
$1.50 per head, radicchio, fennel and leeks for $1.50 per bunch,
and large heads of cauliflower for $1.50 apiece.
Most people have probably drunk some of Joe Stabile’s apples.
That’s because the bulk of the fruit his 9000 trees produce go
into Martinelli’s
Sparkling Cider. But when Stabile retired from IBM 13 years ago,
he started bringing some of his crop to farmers markets. He sells
at three farmers markets per week, and says it takes him the other
four days to get the apples picked and ready to sell. All of the
20 different kinds of apples he brought were $1.50 per pound,
including the sweet and flavorful Pinova,
a relatively new variety developed in Germany.
I wish I’d bought some of Stabile’s
Pinova apples. They were the best apples
I’ve tasted this year. Unfortunately, I had
no more room in my backpack, but I will look
for them at other farmers markets this winter.
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What I Bought:
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Chard
Louis Lacopi, who’s been farming in Half Moon Bay for 45
years, brought winter greens, including three kinds of chard for
$2 per bunch, broccoli and cauliflower for $2 per pound, and leeks
at $3 per bunch. He also sold four varieties of dried beans
for $4 per pound: gigante,
Italian white beans, mandarins and favas.
Lacopi’s family emigrated to California from Lucca, a part of
Italy famous for olive
oil. So it wasn’t surprising that most cooking suggestions
Lacopi offered to his customers for his produce all started with
“heat a little olive oil in a pan and add some garlic.” Brussel
sprouts are a common crop in the Half Moon Bay area, but unlike
many other farmers, Lacopi brought his to the market detached from
the stalk
on which they grow. His were tiny and tender, about the size of a
strawberry. Lacopi suggested cutting them in half and roasting
them in the same pan with either pork or lamb, with olive oil and
garlic, of course. I’m going to try one of Louis Lacopi’s
suggestions and roast them with a loin of pork. Earlier
this year I saw Martha Stewart suggest that for a
really elegant presentation, each individual leaf
should be peeled from the sprouts before cooking. That
seems to me to be an unnecessary refinement,
particularly for Brussels sprouts that are small and
tender.
I’m going to subject my red chard to
Louis Lacipi’s recipe for Italian-style
chard. It cooks down to a relatively small
amount, so I’ll serve it as a side dish with
fish or chicken. Louis Lacopi’s enthusiasm for cooking
helped sell a lot of the winter produce at his
booth. I’m going to try his
Italian-style chard.
Price: $2/bunch for chard
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Brussel
Sprouts
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I didn’t grow up eating many root vegetables,
so I want to experiment with the parsnip, boiling
and mashing it just like the presentation I saw on one
of my favorite food blogs this week. I’ll
char the radicchio under the broiler and serve with a
sprinkle of balsamic
vinegar.
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(left to right) Parsnip,
Radicchio,
Finocchio (Fennel)
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Although many Italian people here in
the Bay Area have many different ways of cooking
finocchio, I will cut mine in strips and eat it raw,
enjoying the crisp texture and the licorice flavor.
The flavor is so intense that it’s almost
candy-like, but at a fraction of the calories.
Here's a great
fennel recipe.
Price: $1/one large pasnip
$1.50/fennel bulb
$1.50/head of radicchio
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Dried
Asian Pears and Persimmons
K& J Orchards from Winters was selling a product I’ve
never seen before at farmers markets, dried rings of Asian pears
for $3 per bag, or two bags for $5. The dried pears were chewy,
sweet without stickiness, and still retained some of the gritty
quality that is a pear characteristic. They also had 3 varieties
of fresh Asian pears, fuyu persimmons, comice pears and Satsuma
oranges, all for $2 per pound. Fuji apples were $1.50 per pound. The dried Asian pear slices
that I bought barely made it home
with me. This is one of the most delicious new
foods I’ve found in any farmers market, and like
potato chips, it’s impossible to eat just one.
Price: $3/bag
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Navel
and Blood Oranges
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I’ve never seen a variety of oranges I
didn’t like. Today I came home with three
favorites: big heavy navels, zipper-skinned
Satsumas, and deep red blood oranges. Like the
elderly women I used to see eating on the
trains in Japan, I’ll often peel and eat
three or four Satsumas at a sitting.
I squeezed some of the navels and some of
the blood oranges and had a comparative juice
tasting. It took three blood oranges to
produce the same amount of juice as two
navels. I tried straight blood orange
juice, straight navel orange juice and a blend
of the two.
The blood orange juice (top photo at
right) was intense in
flavor, like Valencia orange juice overlaid
with slightly under-ripe raspberries. It had
the heaviest mouth feel of the three. The
navel orange juice (center photo) was sweet and full-bodied. The
blend of the two (bottom photo) —which stretches the more
expensive blood orange juice further—still
has a rich red color, but is slightly sweeter
than the blood orange by itself. If I
were having guests for brunch and wanted to
impress them, I’d probably use a mixture of
the regular orange juice and the juice from
the blood orange.
Price: $1/lb.
for navels
$2/lb. for others |
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