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2010 James
Beard Award Winner: Photography
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“From
gaucho campfires to society weddings, you can always find
chimichurri in
Argentina
,” writes Francis Mallman, in describing the pungent condiment
that Argentines slather by the heaping spoonful on grilled meats
and vegetables. “The basics -- olive oil, parsley, and oregano
-- never vary but the rest is up to the ingenuity of the chef and
local tradition.” While acknowledging that chimichurri
“changes from town to town,” Mallman makes it clear that
deviating too far from the standard is unacceptable. Recalling a
gala dinner that preceding the one at which his own book was
bestowed with a prestigious James Beard Award, he observes, “At
a Latin- American-themed James Beard Award evening in New York
City, I couldn’t believe what some of the chefs had done with
it: mango, strawberries, mint! I was so sad, I wanted to crawl
inside my oven. Invention is fine, but you have to stay true to
the original idea. My variation on the theme is fresh herbs
instead of dried, which is what the gauchos use.”
Chimichurri
[back to top]
1 cup water
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 head garlic, separated into cloves and peeled
1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 cup fresh oregano leaves
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1. To make the salmuera (brine), bring the water to a boil in a
small saucepan. Add the salt and stir until it dissolves. Remove
from the heat and allow to cool.
2. Mince the garlic very fine and put in a medium bowl. Mince the
parsley and oregano and add to the garlic, along with the red
pepper flakes. Whisk in the red wine vinegar and then the olive
oil. Whisk in the salmuera.
3. Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid, and
keep in the refrigerator. Chimichurri is best prepared at least 1
day in advance, so that the flavors have a chance to blend. The
chimichurri can be kept refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 weeks.
Peached
Pork [back
to top]
1
boneless pork loin roast, about 2 pounds, butterflied
8 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary leaves
7 to 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 small peaches, skin on, cut in half and pitted
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1. Lay the meat out on a work surface and trim off all fat and
membrane. Using a meat mallet, pound to an even thickness of 3/4
inch.
2. Combine the garlic, rosemary, and 6 tablespoons of the olive
oil in a small bowl. Season the pork with salt and pepper to
taste, and spread half of the garlic mixture evenly over the
surface. Flip the meat, season with salt and pepper, and cover
with the remaining garlic mixture.
3. Brush a 12-inch square or two-burner rectangular cast-iron
griddle with 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat over medium heat
until a drop of water sizzles on the surface. Add the meat to the
hot surface. Place the peaches around the meat, cut side down. Dot
the butter around and in between the peaches and let them cook
until nicely charred on the cut side and slightly softened, about
5 minutes. Transfer to a platter and cover to keep warm.
4. When the meat is well browned on the first side, turn and cook
on the other side, adding another tablespoon of olive oil if
needed, for about 7 minutes, or until done to taste. Transfer the
meat to a carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for
3 minutes. Slice the meat and serve the peaches alongside.
Burnt
Tomato Halves
[back to top]
4
firm but ripe tomatoes
Extra virgin olive oil
Coarse salt
16 black peppercorns (see note)
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
1. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until a drop
of water sizzles on the surface. Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in
half. Brush the cut side of the tomato halves with olive oil and
sprinkle with coarse salt to taste.
2. Place the tomatoes cut side down on the hot surface. Do not
move for 8 to 10 minutes, or they will burst and lose their shape.
The bottoms of the tomatoes will show a thin black line of char
all around when they are done.
3. Using a sharp-edged spatula, lift the tomatoes off the hot
surface and invert onto a serving plate, so that the burnt side is
up. With a chef’s knife, cut crosshatches into the surface of
the tomatoes. Sprinkle with the peppercorns and oregano, drizzle
with more olive oil and serve immediately.
Note: I like whole peppercorns here, but if you find them
problematic, coarsely crack or grind them.
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